Ant & Anise

Simple, elegant, healthy food and a fondness for gluten- and grain-free recipes

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The Roasted Tomato Revelation

tomatopuffpastryAh yes, that family barbecue last August, when I thought I was being entirely rational in what I was cooking:

  • my go-to puff pastry appetizer, from John Bishop and Dennis Green’s cookbook, Simply Bishop’s: Easy Seasonal Recipes
  • smokies on the barbecue, with baked tomatoes, caramelized onions and a couple of mustard choices on the side
  • salad
  • fresh berries and ice cream for dessert

How hard could that be?

And then, as usual, I found myself running behind, all because I’d been diverted by a very big, very inexpensive bag of only slightly soft tomatoes that I found in Granville Island Market that morning.

Since I’d just been looking at the slow-roasted tomatoes recipe in Fine Cooking Magazine, it seemed like Fate had stepped in, and I’d better play my part.

I can’t say I’m sorry, even though, as usual, I had to press you into service in the kitchen.

Roasted tomatoes have been a revelation, and they just keep getting better and more useful as the months go by.

tomatopuffpastry1Even on the first night, they showed some sign of what was ahead.
I started out thinking of them as a relish for the smokies, but they looked and smelled so good that they crept into the puff pastry recipe too.

At the time I thought they’d be seasonal, a use for over-ripe tomatoes in August and September.

But it turns out that over-ripe tomatoes show up all year long. In the past, I stopped buying tomatoes in the winter, because they aren’t very good, and I don’t feel like eating them in cold weather.

But now that I roast them, tomatoes in winter are a whole different food. Whenever I see soft ones, deeply discounted, I stock up.

Like you, I’ve stopped using the cup of olive oil, and I love your tip about pressing the liquid out halfway through cooking to redistribute it in the pan.

So now I’m using your roast tomato recipe. Funny how that works.

Here’s the recipe for the puff pastry appetizer, with a few changes from John Bishop’s recipe: baked tomatoes instead of the romas he calls for, and basil pesto instead of olive oil and chopped fresh basil.

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Roasted Tomato Tart with Asiago & Red Onions

Ingredients

  • 8 ounces frozen puff pastry, thawed
  • 1 small red onion
  • 8 ounces roasted tomatoes
  • 4 teaspoons basil pesto
  • 1 cup grated Asiago cheese
  • Olive oil for drizzling
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Fresh basil leaves for garnish, rolled and cut into chiffonade

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 400 F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
  2. On a lightly floured surface, roll out puff pastry to form an eight-inch square, 1/8th of an inch thick.
  3. Cut into four four-inch squares. Prick pastry all over with a fork and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
  4. Peel onion and slice as thinly as possible, preferably with a mandolin.
  5. Brush pastry squares with pesto.
  6. Press any extra liquid out of baked tomatoes. Arrange tomatoes in a layer.
  7. Place a layer of onion slices over the baked tomatoes and top with grated Asiago cheese. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with a grinding of black pepper.
  8. Place on the prepared baking sheet and bake until pastry is puffed and golden, about 15 minutes.
  9. To serve, place each tart on a warmed plate and garnish with basil threads.
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Copyright 2011-2013 Ant & Anise

tomatoomelette

And for ways they’ve moved into my life:

  • angel hair pasta with caramelized onions, prosciutto, Italian parsley and a sprinkling of goat cheese
  • cheddar cheese omelette with basil or chiives
  • with green beans and caramelized onions

By the way, thanks for the tip on refreezing puff pastry. I bought a one-pound package from Whole Foods, and only used half when I last made the Warm tomato and Asiago Tart.

But I rolled it all out, and cut it into squares. I froze the extra on a cookie sheet and then slipped them into a freezer bag.

This is dangerous knowledge – I’ve already whipped up a quick mango puff-pastry tart, just because I had a mango, and with the puff pastry all ready in the freezer I knew it would take no time at all.

 

Roasted Tomato Pizza Sauce

 

roasted tomato pizza sauce

There’s a saying that when the student is ready, the teacher appears. That’s kind of how it felt when you made the roasted tomatoes for that cheesy, puff pastry appetizer.

I recently found a new pizza dough recipe and was eager to try it, but was hesitating because I’d never been able to make a good, tomato-y sauce. Years ago I attempted it several times and ended up with nothing better than, well, red paste with not much flavor. Frustrated, I just gave up on making my own pizza – for good.

But that’s crazy, right? I tackle complicated new recipes often enough, and they almost always turn out great. And pizza is supposed to be easy to make. What was it about the sauce that had me defeated before I had even started?

The appetizer you made was delicious. (Aside from the roasted tomatoes, when there’s puff pastry and melted cheese involved, what’s not to love?) But it was when I tried one of the sweet, smoky tomatoes straight from your roasting pan that afternoon that I suddenly thought pizza sauce, I just might have found a way to conquer you for good.

roasted tomato pizza sauce

So there I was a few days later, me and 5 pounds of ripe tomatoes in the kitchen.

I tried the same recipe you did and got the sweet-smoky complexity I was after. Yes! But a whole cup of oil seemed like a lot. Tomatoes are pretty juicy anyway, so I ended up with lots of extra liquid that I didn’t want.

So the next time around, I used the quicker-cooking variation: I took the seeds and other watery bits from the center of the tomato first, and reduced the oil by more than half. This reduced the roasting time to 2 hours (from 3) but – even better – produced tomatoes with much less liquid and an even more intense, smoky, tomato-y punch. Just what I needed to end my homemade pizza hiatus for good.

Print
Roasted Tomato Pizza Sauce

Yield: 5 cups

You can find the Fine Cooking recipe for slow-roasted tomatoes here. This is the adjusting I did to arrive at my really ridiculously good pizza sauce.

Ingredients

  • 5 pounds medium sized very ripe tomatoes, stemmed
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
  • sea salt
  • granulated sugar
  • 4 cloves garlic, sliced thin
  • 2 tablespoons thyme leaves

Instructions

  1. Heat oven to 350F. Line two 11x17" rimmed baking sheets with foil, then with parchment paper.
  2. Cut the tomatoes crosswise. Scoop out the seeds and any pulp in the middle, and then arrange cut side up on the prepared baking sheets.
  3. Sprinkle a pinch of salt, then sugar, over each tomato. Arrange a slice of garlic and sprinkle the thyme over the tomatoes. Drizzle a little balsamic vinegar over each tomato, and then drizzle the oil (sparingly, but believe me 1/2 cup is enough!) over the tomatoes and on the bottom of the baking sheets.
  4. Roast in the middle of the oven for 1 hour. Remove from oven and redistribute the juices by pressing down slightly on the tomatoes with a spatula and tilting the baking sheet around. (The aim here is ensure there's some liquid on the baking sheets so the bottoms of the tomatoes don't scorch.)
  5. Roast for 1 more hour, until the tomatoes are browned, shrunken and concentrated. Remove from oven and cool on baking sheets for 30 minutes.
  6. In batches, place the tomatoes in a fine mesh strainer over the sink and press out any excess liquid. Transfer tomatoes to a food processor and pulse to a sauce-like consistency. Refrigerate for up to a week, or freeze for up to 3 months. I portion out the sauce in small packages before I freeze it, so when I feel a craving for homemade pizza coming on -- which is fairly often these days -- I've got a perfectly-sized amount ready to go.
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Copyright 2011-2013 Ant & Anise

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Aside from pizza sauce, these roasted tomatoes have worked their way in to a number of dishes I’ve been making lately. Here are some ideas to try:

  • Warm up a few roasted tomatoes and place whole on top of toasted baguette slices with goat cheese spread on them, for some amped-up goat cheese crostini. These are great on their own or as a hearty topping for a main course salad.
  • Slice and toss with shaved parmesan cheese and arugula for a substantial salad accompaniment to grilled meat or fish instead of your regular green veggie side dish.
  • Tuck inside a baguette with cheese and lettuce for an everyday gourmet kind of sandwich.
  • As a twist on the ‘full English’ – instead of a broiled tomato, warm a couple of roasted tomatoes in the oven and serve with eggs and bacon….and the baked beans of course.
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About Us

We’re Eve and Kris, an aunt and a niece. We love food. And while we have a lot in common in our approach, we also have our differences. So why not hash it out in a blog? Ant and Anise is a conversation about food in our lives, past and present. We like real food that doesn't take hours to prepare, but has something unexpected about it. It helps if it's pretty, too.

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